Hair colour correction

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Dark blonde hair with light blonde hair

Copper hair with purple hair.

Lighten your hair. Hair roots,

Collect as much information as possible about the hair dye you are going to use because they differ a lot in mixing ratio and the lightening effect of oxidizer. 

I do recommend the following hair dyes: Wella, Revlon, Matrix, L’oréal, Swarzkopf , they are the bests on the market.

Also take into consideration that the instructions apply to normal hair structure.

Before dyeing your hair, you must know a few things about your hair, like the absorbency of your 

hair, the thickness, health condition, natural hair colour and the lightening effect of the oxidizer you are going to use.

Vol. 20  – dye to same colour, darken, dye to one shade lighter

Vol. 30 – dye to 2-3 shades lighter

Vol. 40 – dye to 3-4 shades lighter

When you dye your hair roots to a lighter colour, the pigments in your hair change colour to reddish, yellowish. You can offset this by using ash-blonde, more matt colours.

We call lifeless and dry hair ends matt or green. To avoid it, mix red, copper or gold mixton in the colour.

I have written only colouring because never should you dye the whole length and the ends of your already dyed hair just refresh the colour by colouring (temporary hair colour).

Let me explain:

Natural hair colour is no. 7 blonde (hair roots)

The colour of the whole hair is no. 8 light blonde, dry, matt.

Desired hair colour is no. 8 natural light blonde without gold undertone.

Hair dye plan

Hair roots:

8/ ash -shade hair dye. You will need this to offset the orange pigments and end up with the desired natural colour. Use vol. 20 oxidizer to lighten one shade.

Length of hair and hair ends:

Refresh your colour by using no. 9 hair colour + red mixton colour (don’t use no.8 light blonde, because it may result in over pigmentation and the length of your hair is not faded but only dull). Add 1 unit: 15 ghair colour + 2 cmred mixton  + 2 units of developer.

You can make you hair shiny by doing this and don’t be afraid, it won’t get red. (always go for a shade lighter colour to refresh original colour if not faded)

If you dyed your hair with colour no. 8 light blonde than your hair roots would have a shiny gold undertone and the rest of your hair and hair ends would become darker thanks to the absorbency and dryness of your hair. It would be more matt too and could end up with a greenish undertone.

How to dye and pre-pigment grey hair

There are better and better hair dyes on the market thanks to the producers. Some of them cover grey hairs 100 %, but it is still very usual to mix base colours to fashion colours for perfect concealment.

Percentage ratio of grey hair

0 - 30%                       - no adding of base colour necessary

30 - 50%                     -1/3 base colour is needed to combine

50 – 70%                    - ½ base colour is needed to combine

70 – 100%                  - pre pigmentation or ¾ base colour is needed to combine

These mixing ratios can vary, so always make sure you know how much your chosen hair dye will cover grey hairs.

You should use pre-pigmentation if your hairs are very thick and hard or if it has happened to you that some parts of your hair has not been properly covered (at forehead or at temple)

Mixing ratio for pre-pigmentation

1 unit of base colour 2 units of warm water

Pre-pigment your hair with one shade lighter colour than your desired colour until hair colour no. 8.

E.g. Dye your hair to same colour that you already have or darker:

You would like to end up with hair colour no. 7 (copper and gold shade) at home but you know very 

well that it won’t cover all your grey hairs then you will need colour no. 8 too. Mix 15 g of colour no. 8 with 30 g of warm water and apply it on the critical area, wait for 10 mins then apply colour no. 7  (copper and gold shade) on the roots. Do not rinse the pre-pigmentation substance but leave it on and put the hair dye on top.

If you have more then 70 % of grey hairs pick one shade darker hair dye because this amount of grey hairs could result in 1-2 shades lighter hair colour.

To lighten grey hair is more difficult especially if you have some of your natural hair colour too.

Your Virtual Hairdresser Consultant

Hair colour spectrum in hairdressing

Colour theory is basically the colour spectrum.

There are terms that we don’t use in everyday life.

E.g.: for green – matt

         for blue – ash

         for violet - pearl

While bleaching, there might remain yellow (gold), orange (copper) and red shades in the hair. You can neutralize it by applying the directly opposite colour.

For example you can neutralize yellow (gold) shade by violet (pearl).

Orange (copper) can be neutralized by blue and red by green (matt).

I have already talked about natural hair colour, which is the darkness and lightness of hair and the colour tone which describes the characteristic of hair colour and shade

.

Hair dye producers use numbers and letters to describe hair colour and shade.

The number before the dot or backslash stands for the colour while the number after the dot or backslash stands for the shade.

I will show you the numbers of My hair dye producer:

8/34 – light blonde with copper shade

     8 – light blonde – base colour

/3  - gold – the first number after the backslash stands for the main characteristic and shade of  the hair colour .

/  4 – copper – the second number after the backslash stands for the secondary characteristic and shade

10/8 – lightest blonde with pearl shade

10                  - lightest blonde – base colour

            /8 – pearl – main characteristic

I have explained it this way because hair dye producers may use different numbers for colours.

This is why I don’t tell you what number of colour to buy if you want to colour your hair instead I will ask you to buy a 9,10 or 11 colour pear blonde shade at the hair shop. 

I hope it is clear for you now but this is only a segment of colour spectrum so far. I will tell you everything more detailed when it comes to hair dye because without the knowledge of colour spectrum you can’t dye your hair nicely and thoroughly.         

On my video I am changing a colour no. 5 roots into pearl blonde no. 10. It is impossible to achieve this without pre-bleaching.

              

Before sharing the video I will have only one more short writing, namely

-how important to do skin test and

-how important to take care of your blonde hair.

Your Virtual Hairdresser Consultant